GB Climbing: ready for Tokyo 2020
Will Bosi competing in Chamonix. Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC.
With just one year to go until sport climbing’s debut in the Olympics, GB Climbing is aiming high. Now, the British team is set for a further boost, as Tom Greenall has been appointed GB Climbing Head Coach.
In August 2020, the eyes of the climbing world will be on Tokyo, where the best climbers in the world will battle it out across three testing disciplines of bouldering, lead and speed climbing.
Our British athletes are ready for the challenge, and they have been getting world-class results in this season’s international events. In July, Molly Thompson-Smith and Will Bosi both made it through to the lead World Cup final (a British first), and top British climbing medal-hope Shauna Coxsey has now achieved two bouldering podiums and set a new GB speed-climbing record. Shauna is ranked 11th in the three combined disciplines this season.
GB Climbing is run by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC). The BMC is the national governing body for sport climbing in the UK and is recognised as the international federation for sport climbing by the IFSC.
The BMC manages the GB Climbing Teams, Talent and Performance pathways, national and international competition events in the UK, and proudly promotes the future of our sport.
Now, GB Climbing is set for a further boost, as Tom Greenall has been appointed GB Climbing Head Coach. This is a new role for the BMC, in partnership with the English Institute of Sport, funded through the National Lottery supported UK Sport Medal Support Plan and UK Sport Aspiration Programme.
Tom has extensive experience of international performance coaching and the design, implementation and management of elite-level climbing programmes. He previously led the GB Junior Bouldering Team as a manager and coach and was a strategic lead for talent profiling in climbing for the BMC.
Tom has supported elite climbers to podium success on the World Cup and World Championship stage: recently he has been the head coach for Shauna Coxey’s EIS-based Medal Support Plan, and led her preparations towards Olympic qualification.
The English Institute of Sport has been a crucial partner for the BMC, through the management of the Medal Support Plan and in provided expertise through performance management, sport science, sport medicine and technology.
The BMC is excited by the opportunities of this new role, which will allow collaborative work with senior GB athletes, GB Coaches and athlete personal coaches to further drive the international success of GB climbing.
The first Olympic selection event is in Hachioji (Japan) in three weeks. Who will make it through this first qualification opportunity?
WATCH: The replay of the final of the La Sportiva BMC British Bouldering Championships 2019
Tom Greenall, GB Climbing Head Coach, BMC:
“I am delighted to have been appointed as Head Coach for GB Climbing, and I am excited to be working with the English Institute of Sport and the BMC as we build towards 2020 and beyond. We have a tremendous pool of talented and capable athletes here in Great Britain, and I am looking forward to working with them in the pursuit of excellence in the coming months.”
Lorraine Brown, Head of Managed Sport, English Institute of Sport:
“The appointment of Tom Greenall as GB Head Coach is a ground-breaking moment for the BMC and GB Climbing, and a continued statement of intent from the BMC to maximise the opportunity of Tokyo 2020. Tom’s personal philosophy to ‘progress through innovation’ will ensure the GB climbers who qualify for Tokyo 2020 will be best prepared by maximising the English Institute of Sport resources available.”
Zoe Spriggins, BMC Competitions Programme Manager:
“It’s an incredible time to be involved with GB climbing. The Olympic Games are just a year away, and our athletes have really upped their performance levels. Tom Greenall is a very experienced and successful coach, and the whole team is looking forward to working with him. The rollercoaster is moving in the right direction and momentum is building - hold on to your hats!”