Meet GB Climbing’s rising star Lucy Garlick

Last year GB Climber Lucy Garlick became the youngest British climber to compete at senior level, reaching the finals at the IFSC European Cup at Loverval aged just 16. The teen from Carshalton, south London, was also one of ten athletes nominated for SportsAid One-To-Watch Award in 2022. So, shortly after her 17th birthday this March, we caught up with Lucy to find out more about her passion for climbing, how she trains and her hopes for the future. 

Follow Lucy on Instagram @lilcrusher

When did you start climbing?

I started climbing when I was 6 when my mum and aunt took me to White Spider indoor climbing wall, south London, because they thought I would love it. A few months later I was spotted by a coach there and she introduced me to performance coach Belinda Fuller who invited me to join the squad. 

Tell us about your climbing-related home improvements

For my 8th birthday my uncle made a climbing wall going up my stairs. 

I quickly outgrew that so for my 9th birthday my dad built me a climbing wall in my loft which I’ve now made similar to a spray wall [a wall with lots of different holds on, densely packed] which is great for projecting. I have a Beastmaker fingerboard and a peg board above the doorways and a bar set up within the door frame. Before lockdown my grandad built me a Power Station [a short, overhanging wall] for my garden and put a cage around it so I could use it all year round. Then I needed something at home for endurance training so we gave the Power Station to one of my squad mates and my grandad turned the cage into a 30 degree woody board [like a Power Station but larger]. It’s a fantastic space for me to train in weekly and saves me always travelling to climbing walls.

What do you love most about climbing?

I love the process of working a route or a boulder, I love trying to perfect a climb and do what the route setter intended but I also enjoy trying to break a climb. However, my biggest passion is competition climbing. I love the buzz you get from competing on a stage with the crowd cheering you on.

What steps led you to the GB Climbing team?

I was first invited to a selection event when I was 11 years old and it was always a dream of mine to put on a GB vest and compete for my country.

What does your weekly training look like?

At the moment my training week is 5-6 days climbing with one of them being power endurance. I do one core, one lower body and one upper body work out and I do strength and mobility every morning and flexibility twice a day. 

How did SportsAid help you out?

This is my third year with SportsAid. They have supported me financially, and also they run events where I meet other athletes from different sports and get to chat with them about their experiences. I also got to have media training.

Who else supports your climbing?

My dad is my biggest financial support, for the last two years I have been a White Spider athlete and they contribute towards my travel. I’m an ambassador for Psychi who help me out with kit and for the last eight years Scarpa have supplied me with endless amounts of shoes.

Your climbing highlights?

My highlights so far are competing in my first European Cup for seniors and making the finals last year; my first Youth World in 2021 which was my first competition since covid and winning Youth Climbing Series (YCS) finals in 2016. 

Latest competitions?

My last competition was Battle of Britain (BOB) 2023 [at Manchester’s Depot Climbing] where I came first. I have attended this comp since I was eight years old. I managed to come second at a European Youth Cup, 5th at Youth Worlds for boulder and eighth at a European Cup for seniors.

Any low points to learn from?

To name a few low points I’ve learnt from: I’ve had judging errors which have cost me a place in finals. While it’s hard to learn from this, you have to get over it, move on and make sure you reach the top next time so there’s no dispute. There’s no use keeping these negative thoughts in your head when you’ve got to compete at the next competition. 

On a few occasions I’ve gone through to finals in first position but wanted the win so badly that I’ve forgotten to enjoy the event not performed at my best.

Goals in climbing?

I have a long list of competitions for this year. I’m doing a few European Youth Championships which I’m aiming to podium at. At the Senior European Cups I’m hoping to make the finals and a few Boulder World Championships where I’m going to gain experience. And finally there are the Youth World Championships where I’m hoping to make the podium in Boulder and finals in Lead. My long term goals are to become world champion and go to the Olympics in 2028.

Most useful/best thing a climbing coach has ever told you?

My coach always says, “Go out and enjoy it.” 

Your top tip for a newcomer?

Hire climbing shoes, climbing in trainers is so hard!

Your top tip for a youngster wanting to follow in your footsteps? 

Don’t focus on the grade just enjoy the climb.

What do you enjoy doing when you’re not climbing?

When I’m not climbing I like playing games and seeing family. To relax I enjoy spending time in my room watching movies and chatting with my friends.

Anything else you’d like to mention?

I would like to thank GB Climbing for all their support, they are a great team.